Test Driving Retirement in an Historic City
In Lancaster, Pennsylvania, we were impressed by its walkability, friendly people and good location
Our forte is retiring abroad. We have lived in Cuenca, Ecuador, for the past 14 years, visited expat hotspots in Mexico, Europe and South America, and advised others interested in living in foreign countries through our website.
But when our travels brought us to the States one recent autumn before our annual holiday family visit, we decided to spend the extra time exploring a top retirement destination there.
We quickly discovered that downtown Lancaster is architecturally stunning.
We zeroed in on Lancaster, Pennsylvania, a small, historic city we had not heard of in a state we had never set foot in, because it consistently ranks at or near the top of U.S. News & World Report's annual list of Best Places to Retire in the U.S.
Move over, Florida. In the publication's 2024-25 edition, Lancaster is #3, and locations throughout Pennsylvania impressively occupy the top five spots.
The Beauty of Lancaster
Airbnb hosts often offer big discounts on stays of 30 days or more, so we booked a place in downtown Lancaster for the month of October, boarded an Amtrak train from Penn Station in New York, and away we went to test drive retirement in the middle of Pennsylvania Dutch Country.
We quickly discovered that downtown Lancaster is architecturally stunning. Founded in 1729, we sensed a high level of civic pride because neighborhood row houses are meticulously maintained.
Galleries, shops and studios all over town hosted local artists and special workshops.
It was our good fortune to arrive just as fall festivities were getting underway. The commercial area is anchored by Central Market, America's oldest publicly owned and continuously operating farmers' market.
We joined the large crowd of locals at the market's annual Harvest Breakfast, which takes place the first Saturday in October, for a scrumptious meal of pretzel bread cinnamon French toast. Yes, it was as yummy as it sounds.
That same weekend we strolled the downtown area's picturesque streets during the Fall Lancaster ARTWalk. Galleries, shops and studios all over town hosted local artists and special workshops.
An Exceptionally Walkable Downtown
Living abroad for all these years is not the only way we differ from garden-variety retirees. We have also not owned a vehicle since we left the States.
Walkability is therefore high on our list of desirable features, and Lancaster does not disappoint. According to Walk Score, the city ranks the highest in the entire state with a score of 81 out of 100, and the downtown area scores an almost perfect 98.
We found the price of groceries and eating out to be comparable to or slightly lower than other U.S. cities we have visited.
During our month there we had no need for a car except for a few out-of-town excursions. To reach suburban locations like supermarkets, or if you just don't feel like walking, an added bonus is that local bus service is free for residents aged 65 and older.
Cost of Living Lower Than National Average
Since we live on our Social Security income in Ecuador, cost of living is another major consideration for us. We found the price of groceries and eating out to be comparable to or slightly lower than other U.S. cities we have visited.
Where Lancaster shines in affordability is real estate. While the national median home value is $338,000, the same type of residence can be purchased here for $171,000. Renting is more economical as well, with monthly prices 8% lower than other places. The difference in this largest budget item makes Lancaster's overall cost of living almost 10% lower than average.
Outstanding Health Care
Access to quality health care is of critical importance to older adults. We often walked by Penn Medicine Lancaster General Hospital, conveniently located in the middle of downtown. This modern facility is ranked #1 nationally in adult specialty care with high performance ratings in seven adult specialties and 16 procedures and conditions.
The Friendly Locals
We were totally caught off guard by how friendly the people of Lancaster are. Total strangers actually make eye contact and greet you passing on the streets. As with the well-kept homes we noticed everywhere we went, our consistently cordial interactions indicated how much locals seem to like living there.
Perhaps the surrounding Amish community, the oldest and largest in the country, contributes to this vibe. Known for mild, modest demeanor, the Amish people with their plain style of dress and horse drawn carriages clop-clop-clopping down city streets are a delightful flashback in these modern times.
Location, Location, Location
The Amtrak station right in town makes traveling elsewhere a breeze. An hour after departure we were touring Philadelphia's many museums and attractions. Washington, D.C., Baltimore and New York City, where our test drive originated, are only a few hours away.
Nearby driving destinations are plentiful too. The battlefields of Gettysburg are a short hop to the west, and Hershey is a must-do for chocolate lovers.
Longwood Gardens, one of the most beautiful public gardens in the world, is a memorable place to visit any time of year. The displays for the autumn season throughout the massive conservatory and 1000+ acres of fountains, meadows and woodlands were magnificent.
Does Lancaster Deserve the Hype?
After living in Lancaster for a month, we wholeheartedly affirm all the accolades this charming city has received. The architecture, walkability, friendly people, lovely countryside and accessibility to other points of interest are outstanding. Could we live there?
Budget-wise we could get by, but there would be little "wiggle room" for all the travel and everyday extras we enjoy in Cuenca on our Social Security benefits. Since our weather in Ecuador is springlike all year, the snowy, frigid winters in that part of the United States would be intolerable for us.
But for retirees with a more substantial nest egg who enjoy a climate with four seasons, or who plan to snowbird in warmer weather during the winter months, Lancaster, Pennsylvania, is an outstanding choice.
Whether you are scouting potential retirement locations, or just looking for an enjoyable fall getaway, we highly recommend an October visit to Lancaster.
