The Peaceful Pleasures of a Good, Old-Fashioned Hotel
Yes, super hip hotels have their audience. But these days, it isn't me.
As a travel writer, I've visited more than my share of hip hotels, designed for a generation younger than my own. While I welcomed the early boutique hotel movement in the late '80s, stressing unique design and upgraded food and amenities, many properties now feature a litany of things I didn't ask for and don't want: DJs at the pool, cabanas with bottle service, piped-in house music throughout, SRO bars and celebrity chef-run restaurants requiring advance reservations.
Read a book at the pool? Forget it — unless you like a thumping soundtrack in your ear. I recently hoped for some peace and quiet at a West Palm Beach hotel, only to find a DJ-fueled dance party in full swing in the middle of the afternoon.
The next morning, I headed to the rooftop pool at 9 a.m., book in hand, only to find relentless music coming out of a speaker hidden inside a plant. So much for finishing that book.
Feel free to bring your book to the pool because the last thing you'll find there is a rollicking daytime party.
Happily, there are some really appealing small hotels that don't follow this script, but for true relaxation I like hotels that are still happily ensconced in my own era, or even an earlier one. The kinds of hotels we might have visited decades ago with our families. Maybe they're on a lake, in the mountains or on a beach, but wherever they are, they have no desire to be cool. In fact, they often pride themselves on not having the very features I describe.
Instead, you'll find lawns and porches where you're actually encouraged to relax. Where big, airy dining rooms welcome you and the hotel bar always has a seat. Come on in and order a drink, no elbowing required. And feel free to bring your book to the pool because the last thing you'll find there is a rollicking daytime party.
Here are some lovely hotels that share some or all of these characteristics. Hotels that proudly protect their heritage, while maintaining their properties to perfection. Like us, they've preserved the best of days gone by, while still keeping up with the present.
Midwestern Magnificence
The Osthoff Hotel, Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin
This sprawling beauty overlooks Elkhart Lake itself, warmly welcoming visitors to its charming little hometown where everything is within walking distance. Take a ride on one of the hotel's pontoon boats and you'll pass dreamy summer homes with even dreamier boathouses right at the water's edge. Choose from Otto's for casual dining, The Concourse for more panache and the spacious Elk Room bar.
And imagine this: an on-site professional cooking school. I recently took a pasta making class with Chef Rodney Shulz during which we made three types of pasta, three sauces and ended with a wonderful lunch, wine included. Their award-winning Aspira Spa is consistently excellent. I treated myself to the Sacred Waters Massage and I'm still dreaming of it. Beautiful in all seasons, The Osthoff is famous for their authentic Christmas Market.
West Baden Springs Hotel, French Lick, Indiana
How many hotels have an atrium lobby that was once called the eighth wonder of the world? Set along 3,200 acres, hotel guests can choose from golf, two spas, a bowling alley, horseback riding, gorgeous gardens and more. But whatever you choose to do, the best thing just might be sitting on a rocking chair on the big front porch and watching the world go by, just as visitors have been doing for more than 100 years.
Coastal Calm
The Black Point Inn, Scarborough, Maine
This shingled hotel, built in 1878, stands proudly above the sea in an area called Prouts Neck, where the artist Winslow Homer lived and worked. Rows of white Adirondack chairs overlook the Atlantic Ocean bordering three sides of the property. The Inn's staff pride themselves on fine service and an unhurried atmosphere. Updated guestrooms have the real feel of summer while the Chart Room is perfect for Maine-sourced seafood and more. Whether you're enjoying the geothermally heated pool, walking the spectacular Cliff Walk or just taking in the view, relaxation is always at the forefront.
The Chalfonte, Cape May, New Jersey
Cape May is a summer resort on the Jersey Shore with a unique Victorian vibe. The Chalfonte is its oldest hotel. With gingerbread woodwork, a grand wraparound porch and green striped awnings, it just can't be missed. The simple, inviting guestrooms are "distraction free" since they don't have any modern electronics (with the exception of Wi-Fi).
The on-site owners are there to help with anything from setting up a barbecue to enjoying a local wine tasting.
At The Magnolia Room, Southern specialties like fried chicken have been served for over 60 years. Pink walls, white tablecloths and bentwood chairs make for the loveliest atmosphere. Stop into The King Edward Bar before or after dinner where classic cocktails are always being shaken or stirred.
Kon Tiki Inn, Pismo Beach, California
With a panoramic view of the Pacific (and an ocean view from every guestroom), this well-preserved mid-century property has legions of enthusiastic fans. The on-site owners are there to help with anything from setting up a barbecue to enjoying a local wine tasting. Take the stairs down to the beach or hike in the Pismo Preserve. Vista Steak and Seafood is right at the hotel, as well as a complimentary breakfast. They don't make 'em like this anymore — and that's exactly why the Kon Tiki continues to thrive.
Southern Sensibility
The Inn at Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Virginia
Blacksburg is one of those appealing college towns featuring just enough culture and some excellent bars and restaurants like The Blacksburg Wine Lab, catering to parents and professors. Right in the center of town is the understated Inn at Virginia Tech. Made of local stone, like most of the campus buildings, the entrance is tall and impressive. The rooms are big and a generous breakfast buffet is served each day. Whether you're coming or going, the staff couldn't be nicer. And what a great home base for exploring the area's natural beauty — the hiking trails at Brush Mountain Park and so much more. Like your very favorite sweater, The Inn at Virginia Tech just feels good.
The Hermitage, Nashville
If you haven't been to Nashville lately, it's booming with new building, new residents and more visitors than ever. But even with all that action, there's still a quiet historic hotel where you can decompress after taking in the bands, barbecue and beautiful museums like The Frist. Upon entering the hotel, the soaring white lobby impresses. The Hermitage is the epitome of elegance, even preserving the tradition of afternoon tea. While their restaurants are run by famed Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, sophistication, rather than scene-making, is the watchword.
The Reserve at Hot Springs, Arkansas
For pure bucolic beauty, nothing beats the iconic W.C. Brown House, now a small, refined hotel. A national heritage landmark, The Reserve at Hot Springs has returned this spectacular house to its gilded age best, amid four idyllic acres. Memorable menus utilize ingredients from the property's greenhouse and gardens. The gourmet breakfast is something to behold. A big front porch beckons and Adirondack chairs welcome you throughout the grounds. Enjoy a boat tour or a bike ride or just do nothing at all. They proudly say The Reserve at Hot Springs is "a respite from the hectic pace of everyday life" — and it is.
