For Fresh Eggs, Yard-to-Table Is the New Farm-to-Table

Eggs have been a staple in most households since the beginning of time. They are nutritious as well as versatile, easy to prepare and, until recently, affordable.

Although prices vary greatly by region and retailer, according to the Board of Labor's Consumer Price Index, the average price of a dozen large eggs in the United States rose from $2.92 in January of 2024 to $4.95 this January. That's the national average; the cost of eggs in my town is $8.49 as of this writing, causing me to think twice about grabbing a carton for a weekend quiche.

The reason for this price increase is attributed to an egg shortage. The reasons for the shortage? For one thing, people are consuming more eggs as a means of adding more muscle-building protein to their diets. A second and more concerning reason for the egg shortage is the H5N1 avian influenza that has claimed the lives of millions of egg-laying hens since its outbreak in 2022.

Experts expect egg prices would climb again if a new avian flu outbreak is reported. Rising prices and empty shelves have left many of us scrambling to find an alternative to buying eggs from supermarkets and other retail stores. Neighbors are asking each other over social media where to find eggs at reasonable prices. Some buy from local farms. Others are going a step further, spreading their wings and looking into raising their own chickens.

This was a practice our family tried several years ago. We started with a dozen hens. At times we had more, at times less. (If you're raising chickens for eggs, you need to have at least a few or they won't produce.)

Chicken farming wasn't something I was familiar with, but being excited for a new family-centered venture, my husband and I learned to do it with the help of the internet and friends we knew who already kept hens.

Once we learned the basics, we flew into our new hobby farm. We procured a goat shed and converted it into a coop with nesting boxes filled with hay. Since we live near the woods, we built a chicken-wire pen outside to protect our precious birds from predators when we weren't home.

Then we researched chicken breeds and needs. We ordered chicks from a reputable company and kept them under a heat lamp while they grew. We bought feeders and feed.

When the hens were mature, the weather mild and we were home to keep an eagle eye on them, we let the livestock free range in the yard. There, they supplemented their diet of store-bought feed with grasses and insects (and helped to reduce the tick population in our yard). Free ranging also kept our feed costs a bit lower.

Raising chickens added chores to our days, but also joy. We let the chickens out of the coops and into their pen in the morning, kept the coop clean, filled their feeders, gave them fresh water (and kept the water from freezing in the winter), and kept them healthy.

Our hobby farm also benefitted us in unique ways. Our children befriended the birds. My young daughter gave them names like April, May and June, held them and petted them. The kids also learned how to take care of these birds and the value of farming, gaining knowledge about where their food comes from and the hard work that goes into cultivating it.

And then there were the eggs. Once the hens started laying, (at about 20 weeks old), we would collect one egg per chicken each day. At today's prices, that harvest represents a small fortune. We shared the bounty with our neighbors. Because we kept chickens of various breeds, the eggs we obtained were different colors as well. Some white, some brown, some green.

Fresh eggs also keep longer than store-bought eggs that may have been in storage for a while, and those from free-range chickens are even higher in nutrients than those from birds that don't roam free. The difference is visible in the rich orange yolk. Fresh eggs are truly a marvel of nature.

Our family enjoyed that season of our lives, but we no longer keep chickens. As we lost a few to predators and aspects of our lives changed, we decided to pursue other interests. For now, we enjoy such idyllic pleasures vicariously through friends and family who maintain their own flocks.

Credit: Amy Nicholson

With the cost of eggs these days, I pine for those afternoons I'd visit the laying boxes to collect their treasures and return to the kitchen with a basket full of goodness.

Family farming, whatever its iteration, is worthwhile. People thinking of starting a coop should consider certain things. We are fortunate to live in a rural area where we were able to raise chickens in our backyard. Some places, however, have zoning restrictions against this practice. Check with the local zoning board to learn if there are any restrictions.

After that, research breeds and learn as much as you can at reputable poultry hatcheries' websites and reliable local feed stores.

Should backyard farmers be concerned about avian flu? While there is a risk it can infect backyard birds, owners can take precautions to increase the odds of their flocks staying healthy. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has a wealth of biosecurity information available on its website.

With recommendations like restricting access to birds, disinfecting gear and knowing the warning signs of sick poultry, this list is a good place for owners to start learning how to protect their flock. State veterinarians are also a suitable resource for farmers with state-specific questions.

Do the benefits of raising backyard chickens outweigh the risks? Is it worth it to raise chickens for eggs these days? At the time we kept our flock, the price of eggs was half what it is today, and it was cost-effective for us. Of course, everyone needs to decide for themselves.

A friend of mine whose family raised chickens during the Depression would sell their eggs, but over time, as egg prices decline, the return on their investment of time and effort diminished. My friend's father said that once the price dropped below a penny per egg, it was time to stop selling the eggs and start eating the chickens.

I'm sure if he were around today, with eggs nearly a dollar each in some parts of the country, he'd be crowing a much different tune.

Amy Nicholson Nicholson lives with her family by a waterfall in northwest Connecticut. She works as an educator and freelance writer. Find more of her musings at amynicholson14.wordpress.com. Read More